Treating acne with light and laser: what helps blemish-prone skin?
Acne arises from excess sebum, clogged pores, bacteria and inflammation. Light and laser act on several of these factors and can calm blemish-prone skin, but in pronounced acne they do not replace medical treatment. This page shows what blue and red light, heat and the carbon peel can achieve and what helps with back acne, adult acne and redness after spots.
The SIACSKIN devices featured are the DERMAFORCE BBL PRO, the SIACSKIN x Velaslift, and the PICOLO S and the PICOLO L for the carbon peel. The EUPHEUS M8 only comes into play once the acne has healed and scars remain.
How do light and laser treatments work on acne: do they target bacteria, sebum or inflammation?
Light and laser act at three points: on the acne bacteria, on the inflammation and, through heat, on the sebaceous glands. Blue light excites pigments inside the bacteria, which then damage them from within. Longer-wavelength light calms the inflammation and the redness around the spot. Heat delivered at depth can temporarily dampen sebum production. What is not reached is the fourth factor, the keratinisation at the pore opening that gives rise to blackheads. That is where extraction, fruit acids and the carbon peel help.
The DERMAFORCE BBL PRO covers 400 to 800 nm and lists acne and redness among its applications. For the carbon peel there are the PICOLO S and the PICOLO L. The SIACSKIN x Velaslift also names acne as an area of use.
Blue light or red light for acne: what is the difference?
Blue light acts against the bacteria close to the surface, while red light penetrates deeper and calms the inflammation. Blue at around 400 to 450 nm is strongly absorbed by the porphyrins of the acne bacteria, but travels only fractions of a millimetre. Red at around 630 nm is absorbed more weakly, but reaches the region of the sebaceous glands and is used in photobiomodulation to influence inflammation and healing. That is why the two colours are often combined: blue for fresh, superficial pustules, red for deeper, reddened areas.
The SIACSKIN x Velaslift offers a blue wavelength at 450 nm and a red wavelength at 635 nm, and lists acne and photobiomodulation among its applications. The DERMAFORCE BBL PRO covers both ranges with 400 to 800 nm and 9 filters.
Can heat from laser and light treatments slow down the sebaceous glands and change oily skin?
Yes, heat in the dermis can temporarily dampen the sebaceous glands, but as a rule it cannot switch off sebum production permanently. Sebaceous glands sit in the dermis next to the hair follicle. When they are heated, they may produce less sebum for a while, the skin is then less shiny and new inflammation becomes less frequent. Because hormones continue to drive the glands, the effect wears off and needs topping up. What is realistic is calmer, less oily skin over a course of treatment, not permanently dry skin.
In a carbon peel with the PICOLO S or the PICOLO L, the carbon absorbs the pulse at 1064 nm, sebum is released from the pores and the upper layers of the skin warm up slightly. The PICOLO L additionally offers the Genesis mode for skin renewal.
Carbon peel or light treatment: which is right for blackheads and which for inflamed spots?
The carbon peel suits blackheads, clogged pores and oily skin, while light treatment suits inflamed red spots. Blackheads are a mechanical problem of sebum and keratin, and the carbon peel releases exactly that from the pore. Inflamed papules and pustules are a bacterial and inflammatory problem. Here, light in the blue range acts on the bacteria and longer-wavelength light on the redness. Most skin shows both. The two methods can then be alternated: first calm the inflammation, then clear the pores. No laser pulse is applied to open, pus-filled areas.
For the carbon peel, the PICOLO S is the entry-level device and the PICOLO L the larger solution. Light treatment is handled by the DERMAFORCE BBL PRO for skin types I to IV.
When are light and laser a useful addition to medical acne treatment?
They are useful for mild to moderate acne when creams alone are not enough, when medication is not tolerated or when the skin is to be kept calm between flare-ups. Medical therapy remains the basis, and the device complements it. Coordination is important: some acne antibiotics and retinoids make the skin sensitive to light. During and after a course of isotretinoin, the doctor decides when light treatment is possible again. Irritating creams are paused a few days before the session. So ask about current medication at every appointment.
The DERMAFORCE BBL PRO lists acne as an application and, with sessions of 15 to 30 minutes, is well suited as an accompanying course of treatment. The SIACSKIN x Velaslift also names acne as an area of use.
What helps with back acne and spots on the shoulders and décolleté?
On the back, the same methods help as on the face, but larger areas, more patience and skincare that can actually reach the area are needed. The skin on the back is thick, has large sebaceous glands and is irritated by sweat, friction from a rucksack or sportswear and residues from washing the hair. Light calms the inflamed areas, and a carbon peel clears the clogged pores. Deep, painful nodules on the back frequently leave scars and belong in medical care. On the décolleté a more cautious dose is used, as the skin there is thin.
The DERMAFORCE BBL PRO works with a spot of 45 × 15 mm, which helps with large areas such as the back and shoulders. The PICOLO S and the PICOLO L list the carbon peel as an application.
What helps with adult acne on the chin and jawline?
In adult acne, light and laser dampen the visible inflammation, but the cause is usually hormonal and often needs medical treatment as well. Typical signs are deep, painful spots on the chin, jawline and neck that flare up before a period, on skin that tends to be dry and sensitive. Aggressive products for oily skin frequently make matters worse. A gentle course of light treatment together with mild skincare makes sense. If an irregular cycle, increased hair growth or hair loss occur as well, the first step is a visit to the gynaecologist or dermatologist.
The DERMAFORCE BBL PRO lists acne and redness among its applications and, at 30 × 12 mm, has a spot for narrow areas such as the chin and jawline.
What helps with red marks after spots have healed (post-inflammatory erythema)?
Red marks after spots are dilated fine vessels, and what helps is light that is absorbed by the red blood pigment. The marks are flat, pink to violet and fade briefly when the skin is stretched or pressed with a glass. Brown marks do not, as they consist of pigment. Red marks often disappear by themselves, but this can take many months. Light treatment shortens this time, usually with 3 to 5 sessions at intervals of 3 to 4 weeks. Sun prolongs the redness, so sun protection is part of the treatment.
The DERMAFORCE BBL PRO lists redness and vessels among its applications and is intended for skin types I to IV. The SIACSKIN x Velaslift also names redness as an area of use.
How can I tell whether acne will leave scars or only marks that fade?
The surface is the deciding factor: marks are coloured but smooth, whereas scars change the relief of the skin. Run a finger over the area or light the skin at an angle from the side. Red and brown marks without any depression are discolourations that fade over months and respond to light and gentle lasers. Dents, small craters or undulating areas are scars and remain. They are only treated once the acne has settled, using methods that stimulate new collagen in the dermis. You can read more about this on our page on acne scars.
For this second phase, SIACSKIN offers the EUPHEUS M8 with RF microneedling and the non-ablative TULIX, both of which list acne scars as an application. The Skin Analyzer Pro documents the baseline condition.
Which light or laser acne treatment is suitable for darker skin types?
For darker skin types, suitable methods are those that deliver little heat to the pigment-rich epidermis, in other words the carbon peel at 1064 nm and low energy rather than broadband light. Dark skin responds to inflammation particularly readily with brown marks, which are often a nuisance for longer than the spot itself. Every treatment must therefore reduce the inflammation without causing new irritation. This includes a test patch, intervals of 4 weeks rather than 2 and daily sun protection. Do not squeeze spots, as that also leaves marks.
The PICOLO S and the PICOLO L work at 1064 nm for the carbon peel. The DERMAFORCE BBL PRO is intended for skin types I to IV. If scars remain after the acne, RF microneedling works independently of melanin, and the EUPHEUS M8 is available for this.
What happens during a light treatment for acne and what does the skin look like afterwards?
The session begins with a thorough, mild cleanse, followed by protective eyewear, contact gel and the pulses over the affected area, 15 to 30 minutes in total. Open or heavily pus-filled areas are left out. The pulses feel warm and briefly stinging, somewhat more noticeably on inflamed spots. Afterwards the skin is red and warm for a few hours, and individual spots may become more prominent the next day and then dry out more quickly. Mild cleansing, light moisturiser and sun protection are permitted. Off limits for 2 to 3 days: exfoliants, squeezing, sauna and heavy-coverage make-up.
With the DERMAFORCE BBL PRO, the SIA AI sets skin type, body area and energy automatically, and the sapphire contact cooling cools the skin surface.
How many sessions does light treatment for acne take and when does the skin improve?
The usual course is 4 to 6 sessions at intervals of 1 to 2 weeks, and a visible calming is generally seen after the third or fourth session. The intervals are shorter than with other light treatments because the bacteria multiply again quickly and the inflammation is meant to be dampened continuously. First the spots become flatter and less red, then fewer new ones appear. A carbon peel is planned as a course of 3 to 6 sessions every 2 to 4 weeks. Because the predisposition remains, maintenance follows, for example every 4 to 8 weeks.
The course of light treatment is carried out with the DERMAFORCE BBL PRO, the carbon peel with the PICOLO S or the PICOLO L.
Can the skin break out in more spots at first after a light or laser treatment?
Yes, in the first 1 to 2 weeks the skin can temporarily become more unsettled, and this usually does not mean that the treatment is unsuitable. Heat and, in the carbon peel, the release of sebum bring congestion beneath the surface up more quickly, congestion that would have emerged anyway. These spots are small and heal rapidly. It is a different matter when new, painful inflammation, blisters or persistent redness appear over a wide area: in that case the energy was too high, the skincare too rich or the skin is irritated. Treatment is then paused and the settings adjusted, and severe reactions should be assessed by a doctor.
Gentle dosing is the best prevention: the PICOLO S and the PICOLO L are used at low energy for the carbon peel, and with the DERMAFORCE BBL PRO the SIA AI sets the energy to match the skin type.
When should you see a dermatologist first for acne rather than go to a beauty salon?
Any acne with deep, painful nodules, with scars forming or with widespread inflamed skin on the face, chest and back belongs with a dermatologist. The same applies if the acne appears suddenly in adulthood, does not improve over 2 to 3 months despite good skincare, started after a new medication or is causing severe emotional distress. In these cases medical therapy works faster and prevents scars that can later be softened only with considerable effort. Blackheads, oily skin, individual inflamed spots and care between flare-ups are in good hands at the salon.
That is where the carbon peel with the PICOLO S and light treatment with the DERMAFORCE BBL PRO have their place, ideally in consultation with the treating practice.
Which devices does a beauty salon need for treating blemish-prone skin?
To get started, one device for the carbon peel is enough. Those who want to expand the offering add a light treatment and a skin analysis. The carbon peel is quick to learn, involves practically no downtime and is booked as a course of treatment, which brings recurring appointments. Light covers the inflammatory side and, in addition, redness and pigment. A skin analysis makes sebum, pores and redness visible and shows the progress. Who may carry out which treatment is regulated differently from country to country.
At SIACSKIN, the PICOLO S is the entry-level device for the carbon peel. The DERMAFORCE BBL PRO lists acne, redness and pores among its applications, and the Skin Analyzer Pro assesses sebum, pores and redness, among other things, in a before-and-after comparison. The free consultation will clarify which combination suits your salon.
